Rear Brakes & Diesel Tanks

December 2013 - 


Renovating the Rear Brakes

 After having the left Rear Brakes open in April 2013, I knew that I needed to rebuild them as they were badly covered in oil. So Starting in December 2013 I removed the rear Shoes from both sides of the rear axle and had new Brake Pads attached. While they were off I cleaned the baking plates, renovated the right hand Rear Wheel Cylinder, painted things that needed it, then cleaned and re-greased the hubs as well as changing the Hub Oil seal.


Well oiled Brake Shoes


Waiting for the oily grease to leave the Hub


Everything was wet with Oil


The oil fang removed and starting to clean


Wheel Cylinder well in need of attention!


Starting the reassembly of the reamed Wheel Cylinder with a coating of brake assembly paste


Oil has been leaking from the Wheel Cylimnder and from the Rear Hub seal to soak into the Shoes.









Removing the Brake components


Backing plate clear for cleaning


The remains of grease collected in the fang


Crusts of rust


The Piston, Rubber Seal and Spring


Very nice weather for doing the job


  The Hand Brake Activating Shaft Bushing Holder
   after removal


The Bushing cleaned and about to replace the Bush and new oil seal


New bush in place


   Before and after sanding rust off the connection     pins


Getting the Shoes in position


    New Shoes and the Hand Brake Shaft with new          sealing rubber


New Grease and Hub Nuts tightened


Parts claened, painted and waiting for assembly



The nylon bush after 47 years was well crumbly



Starting to reassemble the Brakes


Parts laid out ready for assembly



     In position and with copper paste on all moving           parts


    The Hand Brake Shaft held in place with the              Bushing

The Axle being slid in


 Diesel Tanks

Due to my original round Diesel Tank being to small with a capacity of only 100 Liter, I decided to add two, 200 Liter tanks, one on each side of the Truck.
First I had to move the Air Tank as it was mounted on the left outside frame of the chassis where I wanted to mount the first new Diesel Tank.

Moving the Air Tank

Mounting the new holders for the Air Tank
on inner side of the Chassis

Cutting the pipes to fit
The tank is mounted and new air pipes are going in

Main air feed and regulator mounted


Mounting the Diesel Tanks

    The two MAN Tanks; 1060mm L
                                       600mm W
                                       360mm H


Sanding off the rust and flaky paint




I made a wooden template spacer to get the correct distance away from the chassis to clear the Koffer suspension. Then I had steel spacers made following the template


My Tank plan for the Fuel feed and return going through 3 way taps


Tap mounted with fuel hose going through rubber grommets


 TIG welding on the plates to hold the bolt on Fuel Gauge Sender Unit. Im running the inert exhaust from my car into the tank so there are no explosive gases in the tank


    Lifting the Tank to find the right position that          will clear the Koffer and give me the ground              clearance that I want


     Freshly coated with rust inhibiting paint,        Owatrol Oil. Once dry I painted the Tank                 with black 3in1 Brantho-Korrux


Temporally bolted in place to check clearances





Cutting the mounting holes for the taps



The Levers mounted on the side of Drivers Seat



Welding almost finished. A small metal plate was put over the hole to keep most of the exhaust fumes out of the welders face


What it looks like with the left side Tank finally mounted. Plenty of ground clearance. A thick Aluminium plate is going to be mounted under the Tank to protect it from damage when using the Sand Ladders


And the right side Tank is finally on. Im now able to carry a total of 400 Liters of diesel


Wider Rear Rims
I bought new rims for the rear axle to get the wheels sitting in line with the edge of the Koffer.
My new Rims are 8.5V x 20 with an ET of 130mm.
But first I needed to cut out my wheel arches as my wheels were sitting up inside them. It had been on my "To Do" list for a while as changing the rear wheels had always been a struggle to get the wheel in under the arch edge then up over onto the axle hub!
Also its going to be much easier to lift into position the 35 kg Snow Chains.

Starting to cut out the arch


All cut away. Im going to weld steel strips to close and weather proof the edges


This is the old Rim. 7.5 x 20













The Wheel on old Rim


The front section is free


    I also made this cut out to give more room for            filling the Tank


        The newly painted Rims on the way to changing          them over


Now sitting on the new Rim


 As the new Rims didnt have Kugelsenkung on the edge of the wheel bolt holes , I had to build some
rings to center the Rims. So I ground down some of the Kugelrings that were used with the

Kugelsenkung system as they are made of hardened steel.

I used my flex to grind down the edge of the Kugelring while it was being held on a bolt of the same internal diameter

Held to my work bench while grinding





 The Newly ground ring in position on the Wheel Bolt and centering the Rim
A close up of my set up. Ive cut away part of the nut to give me more room to hold the flex flat while grinding. As I grind the Kugelring spins and I grind evenly around the edge


 Here it can be seen how it is centering the Bolt in the middle of the Rim Bolt Hole


Now the wheel sits in alignment with the side of the Koffer, making me more stable off road


Due to the new gearbox being fitted in 2017, this lever does not exist any more!!!
New Winch Lever Connection

My Bike now has a place to live while on the road


When I mounted the Free Wheel Hubs I had to move the Speedometer cable from the front of the Transfer Box to the Gear Box. Where the speedometer cable screwed in was also screwed the shaft that connected the Lever for operating the Winch.
So I had to build a frame to hold the shaft just behind where it used to be and at the same height. I also needed to shorten and bend the final connection bar to the operating arm on the Winch Gear Box
 
This is how the Lever used to be mounted

Staring to weld a frame with the offset shaft



The lever with the new frame attached. The
final connection bar has already been cut and
 re welded, but not yet bent


Fitted in position and checking for clearances



I was also able to connect it with a bolt that was on the to the side of the Gear Box, so welded another small tab on my frame
With it mounted in place the Winch is again working. 
The bend in the
final connection bar can now be seen


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